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Check a few of Doig’s original paintings, and the source becomes clear. Spearfishing, a 2013 canvas, has two men in a boat, the artist’s recollection of seeing a man in an orange wetsuit and another in a yellow anorak, in the Caribbean. The green-brown-yellow sweater and the crocheted white skullcap worn by two of the three Black figures in the artist’s Two Trees are re-rendered in the collection. Rain in the Port of Spain is one of Doig’s lion paintings, spiritually significant iconography initially triggered by the sight of lions in the zoo in Trinidad. “The idea comes from seeing depictions of the Rastafarian Lion of Judah on the walls of buildings, galvanized fences, and T-shirts in the Port of Spain,” he once explained. Doig hand-painted a lion on a Dior bowler hat himself; one of the models carried a huge blanket with a Doig lion woven into it.
There are no accidents of timing in history and culture. Whether or not he had prior insight into how yesterday’s Inauguration of President Joseph R. Biden was being planned, Virgil Abloh’s launch of his Louis Vuitton collection today also resounded with the poetry and intellectual purpose of Black consciousness taking its rightful place. His sixth collection, named ‘Ebonics,’ came with a film directed by Josh Johnson that was powerfully centered on spoken word and performance, a call to radical thinking through the lens of menswear.Spinning cross-cultural references is part of Kim Jones’s modus operandi: The art-collaboration souvenirs presumably pay for themselves as luxury collector’s items. Otherwise, with a fashion-item eye for change, look down. Whether it’s the pomp-and-ceremony aspect of the collection, or its more casual side, the connecting factor is the wider, easier ’90s-tailored trouser. Wherever Jones goes for inspiration—and however neatly he weaves the threads back into the heritage of Christian Dior—his work is always grounded in what men will really want to wear.
A swift blast of art homework on Google (such is the life of a fashion reviewer these days) shows the exactitude of the Doig-Dior reference points. Where there are yellow anoraks, orange coats, and lions; where there are paint-dabby patterns on sweaters—that’s all material replicated from Doig’s oeuvre. “His work is autobiographical. We looked at his paintings of men, of skiers, ice hockey players, and the night sky,” said Jones. “I think he was fascinated by how closely we could replicate his brushwork in textiles and knitwear.” The cheerful shots of citrus color—translated into some of Jones’s subtle merges of casual and luxurious street-wearable outerwear—are the making of the collection.
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