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Ruffini said: “All seven of the designers mean a lot to me and a lot to Moncler for different reasons. Pharrell has been an incredible relationship, and I remember for this mountain brand to have 2,000 people queuing in Paris for a jacket, that was a big moment of change. Then Thom and Giambattista represented another turning point for Moncler, because the day we decided—as a company with its history in climbing and skiing—to make catwalk shows, it was not obvious. I learned a lot from them. Then in 2018 I decided to move away from catwalk shows into this Genius world. Francesco Ragazzi, I worked with him for years and he is my business son, so he had to be there for sure. And Hiroshi is another very important one. And then of course Pierpaolo and Rick created great collections with us and generated a unique energy—and this is what we are always working to create.”
So with the exception of Giambattista Valli, who was not available, I got in touch with each of those designers to look back at their parts in the Moncler story and give their spin on the brand. First up is Pharrell, who Ruffini recalls first meeting in Miami in 2007. They got talking and the result was a 2010-launched collection of bulletproof-jacket inspired down pieces and photo-print jackets, that near-instantly sold-out—and sparked an impromptu block party at the launch in Paris. There was also an eyewear collaboration in 2013. Pharrell wrote by email: “I love collaborating with Moncler because they are not scared to take risks and push the boundaries on fashion. I’m grateful to have had the opportunity to create anything with them at all. Looking back, I really loved the Keita Sugiura jacket from one of our first collabs with fabric made from my sustainable textile company Bionic Yarn. I still have that jacket today… it was way ahead of its time and it was built to last.”
He added: “I remember that I wanted it to look futuristic and I think we succeeded. I also remember we shut Paris down at that launch! The fans were crowding all in the street at Colette. The sunglasses too are another personal favorite of mine… Moncler has a way of making everything feel fresh and new, while also keeping it classic and timeless. People are still wearing those kinds of sunglasses to this day.” Next on the call list is Thom Browne, whose collaborative Gamme Bleu collection first showed in Milan in January 2009. Until both lines were closed by Ruffini eight years later (to make room for Genius) this collection was the counterpoint to Valli’s Gamme Rouge, which showed in Paris. On a call from New York, Browne said: “I think like any good collaboration—and hey look, I’m congratulating myself here!—it really worked because each side worked to create something new. I really respected Remo and what he wanted to do for Moncler. And I wanted Gamme Bleu to be the perfect marriage between me and Moncler. And I think that’s what you saw in the shows and at the collections—I wanted people to see my little hand in this big Moncler world.”
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