This plant, like all succulents, prefers to be somewhat potbound. Too large a pot keeps the soil moist a lot longer; that’s why plants should be transplanted into the next size pot—only an inch larger. Succulents like to stay in a cramped pot for quite a while. Fertilize every 2 months or so, once it is potbound (pot is tightly filled with roots). 5″ to 6″ pots are fine, and maybe a shallow 7″ or 8″ basket for full plants. The soil needs to drain quickly, so coarse sand, pine fines, or horticultural grit should be added to potting soil, or use cactus and succulent soil. Check for insects, such as aphids, mealybugs, and root mealybugs, which work unseen while they sip the lifeblood out of the plant. When you remove the plant from the pot, look at the roots. A white film covering the root ball indicates root mealybug. With a magnifying glass, you can see the small light-colored insects. Horticultural oil works for insects on the foliage, but a stronger (and often smelly) systemic insecticide will kill insects in the roots and on the leaves as well. Read labels, and don’t use systemics on edible plants.
While the plant is out of the pot, you can also see if roots have rotted from overwatering or if they’re bone dry. Use a fork to flake off wet or excess soil, and old dead roots. Repot into a shallow pot just big enough to fit the root system, preferably terra cotta. Water conservatively in the beginning. When it has rooted into the pot, water all the way through, and let excess water drain away. Never let succulents sit in a saucer of water. The Soviet Union was not France where taking Paris terrified a bunch of elite French bureaucrats half of which already had fascist tendencies to begin with. The Soviets were not Poles who just when they started thinking they could hold out they were invaded by a second huge army.